
A is for Avocado
Summer Cooking Series Article
A is for Avocado
The avocado may be classified as a fruit, but we treat it like a vegetable. And it has the ability to transform into one of California’s most beloved condiments — guacamole. We have the Aztecs to thank for being the first to start mashing an avocado in a mortar and pestle and seasoning it with chiles. These days, guacamole livens up our burritos, tacos, and nachos. It’s a fixture at every summer backyard barbecue, often seen with tortilla chips nearby for dipping.
Thankfully, it’s also one of the easiest things you can make. The trick is to have ripe avocados on hand. They are often hard as rocks when you first get them, so you leave them on the counter to ripen. But wait too long, and they will get brown spots and start to rot. Be sure to time your purchase of avocados carefully if you plan to make guacamole for a party. And here’s a tip: if your avocados are ripening too quickly, put them in the refrigerator to slow down the process.
Avocados are notorious for turning brown once cut and exposed to air, so make guacamole right before serving it. Adding acidic ingredients like lime juice and chopped tomatoes helps preserve the color. But if you really must make it ahead of time, put a piece of plastic wrap over the surface — pressing down to contact the entire surface and refrigerate. This seems to be the best way to prevent it from turning brown.
Now, let’s talk about how to make a classic guacamole. In terms of technique, you can go old school and use a mortar and pestle or simply mash the avocado with a fork. Either way, start by cutting the avocado in half and then using the knife to stab the pit and remove it. If your avocado is very ripe and has rough, thick skin, use a spoon to scoop the flesh from each half. If your avocado has thinner, more pliable skin, I find it easier to cut each half into quarters and peel the skin right off.
Once you have all the avocado flesh in your bowl and have started mashing it up, you’ll need to season it. Naturally, you’ll start with salt and pepper. Then for some heat, you can add fresh chopped jalapeños, dried chili powder or a little cayenne. Other popular additions are finely chopped onions, garlic, tomatoes, and cilantro. Lime or lemon juice adds flavor and helps keep it green, as mentioned earlier. Just don’t add too much, or it will taste sour.
The quantities of all these ingredients are up to your individual taste. Add a little, taste and then add a little more if needed. The best guacamoles have a balance of flavors, a little heat (but not too much), and a chunky texture — not a smooth purée. Whatever you do, please don’t add sour cream, mayonnaise or cheese to guacamole in an effort to ‘stretch’ the quantity. It will change the texture and overpower the delicate flavor of the avocado. The fresh and tangy flavor of the traditional ingredients, like the onions, tomatoes, etc., complement the rich, subtle taste of the avocado.
What if you are really in a hurry or want a shortcut? Here’s what I suggest: take your favorite mild or red or green salsa — ideally, the fresh kind you buy in the refrigerated section. To your mashed avocados, simply add a few spoonfuls of the salsa to taste and mix to combine. You’ll probably also want to add salt, pepper, and a dash of cayenne or hot sauce to taste. That’s it; no chopping or dicing, and you get something remarkably like the one made entirely from scratch. You’re welcome.
Here’s to summer backyard parties and the indispensable bowl of guacamole and chips!
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–Krista Harris